Now that the New York Fashion Week is coming again, I thought it was time to revise one of my favorite collections from the autumn/winter one last September, the Marc Jacobs SS17 collection.Not only it was a proper time to do this kind of revival because of the upcoming event, but also because the season for which it was intended is practically here!
It’s time to start thinking about spring and the styles and trend that are going to rule over the rest. We have had since autumn to think about all the designers proposals and the hour of truth has arrived. Were they right?
The Marc Jacobs collection had inimitable unique style – textures, colors, and a deeply dreamy neon 90s vibe. If this designer is and always will be one of my favorites if not the most, is because he always seem unable to get enough of the grunge era. Not only in its dark side but also in its disco/glam version. Who doesn’t love his MTV deep magenta sweatshirt? As a 90s lover myself, Marc Jacobs never lets me down.
But back to the SS17 collection, why was it so special? Which were the main proposals for the season? If you ask me, if I had to choose a material to summarize the concept, it will definitely be holographic pastel snake skin. Too intrincate? Not at all if you know Jacobs. Imagine a ‘heroin chic meets gothic lolita’ collection. And now see it!
Other clear influence is the Japanese vibe added by the ‘gothic lolita’ side of the collection. The inspiration doesn’t stop there and it goes further and further with beautiful embroideries, silky finishes and pop art details. Kawaii!
I’ve selected only a few of my favorite looks from the runway, but they are surely enough to illustrate the idea. The color palette is delicate and bold at the same time, deep colors are left aside to let the textures shine. Details and accessories are a must and platforms shoes are not an option but a basic! The overall look is powdered but dazzling, something that looks innocent enough to fit the youth but also powerful. This collection states ‘Young doesn’t mean naive’. Hail the holographic baroque.
The basis are clear. An eclectic mix of textures, fabrics and finishes. Velvet, silk, denim, camouflage, wool, cotton, knitwear, sequins, animal print, glitter, jewels, metallic details, ribbons, patches, pastels, leather and platforms.
It looks that it anticipated the season perfectly. It follows the line that has so deeply marked the autumn/winter season but with a dash of daylight, different finishes and fabrics give the collection a multidimensional quality that doesn’t leave anyone indifferent. Stockings are the primordial accessory and oversized jackets, full of patches and mixtures of details add deep contrast to the looks.
Another really important point of this whole collection was the show itself, being the stage one of the most beautiful and charming displays of creativity and passion that I’ve ever seen on a runway!
Long live the 80s and 90s!